Planning a trip to a state as large and diverse as Arizona involves a lot of decision making (other than which golf clubs to take), so in Frommer’s Arizona they have tried to give you some direction. They have chosen what they feel is the very best the state has to offer— the places and experiences you won’t want to miss. Sights and activities listed here are written up in detail in this book, and should help you plan your trip.

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ECO MINDED Travel

Guide to Green Hotspots

You don’t have to venture far from home to find eco-friendly places to eat, shop, and play. Here are several dozen of our favorite spots around the United States. If we’ve missed something in or around your town, let us know.

ARIZONA

Kitt Peak National Observatory You so want to sit back with the roof open and participate in the
Nightly Observing Program. See Saturn and the stars. Off Hwy 86 near Tucson, AZ. 520-318-8726; noao.edu/kpno

Hotel Valley HO 1950s legend complete with a Trader Vic’s. Stylish clientele eat local foods, can take a fitness class or a guided hike, and use low-flow toilets.

Taliesin West Frank Lloyd Wright HQ. Enhance your own ideas about organic architecture and conservation of the natural environment. In other words, get inspired. Cactus Rd and Frank Lloyd Wright Blvd, Scottsdale, AZ

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Scottsdale ‘places to go this summer’

Three places in Arizona made The New York Times list of “31 Places to Go This Summer,” providing a potential boost to the state’s tourism.

Two of the places – Monument Valley (No. 12) and Lake Powell (No. 22) – may seem obvious choices.

The not so obvious choice was downtown Scottsdale, which came in at No. 9 despite the summer being the Valley’s off season.

“Downtown Scottsdale is turning into a desert version of Miami’s South Beach. No ocean of course, but plenty of late-night partying and a buzzing hotel scene,” The Times said.

The story mentioned the August opening of the W Scottsdale Hotel & Residences as the latest addition to Scottsdale’s stable of luxury hotels.

“Being on a list of the New York Times, people from around the country and world will see that,” said Rachel Pearson, director of corporate communications for the Scottsdale Convention & Visitors Bureau.

The listing comes as the bureau targets southern Californians with an advertising blitz in San Diego Magazine, San Diego Union-Tribune, SignOnSanDiego.com and LATimes.com.

“People are always looking for great bargains and great deals closer to home,” Pearson said, noting the search for cheaper travel destinations is greater this year because of higher fuel and transportation costs.

Topping the Times travel list was Texas’ hill country, the rolling landscape west of Austin and north of San Antonio, which features 22 wineries.

Of Monument Valley, the newspaper said, “You’ve seen it in countless spaghetti western and Marlboro ads. But the iconic red buttes and mesas of Monument Valley, in the heart of Navajo country, offers more than just postcard-ready views of the quintessential American West. The wind-scraped valley . . . also draws horseback riders, mountain bikers, river rafters and other outdoor enthusiasts.”

Of Lake Powell, The Times said, “With nearly 200 miles of clear blue water and stark red rock, Lake Powell is a boating paradise.”

But we knew that.

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Hike teaches lessons about trails, water

It was like deja vu all over again. My daughter Maureen and I found ourselves walking the western portion of the Canelo Hills in southern Arizona just a month after having strolled the eastern segment of these beautiful, rolling hills.

Like the eastern section, this leg of the Arizona Trail lulled two novice backpackers into a sense of confidence that was soon replaced with frustration and fatigue.

We would cover 17 miles in two days. The first 3 miles were fun. The trail was well marked and maintained, the air was crisp and evidence of wildlife showed itself through scat on the trail. In addition to cat and coyote leavings, we spied white-tailed deer grazing on hillsides and lots of eye candy for birders. The rolling terrain was the same as that in the eastern Canelos, with lots of oak and mesquite trees, cholla and prairie grass.

Three miles into the hike, we stopped to fill our water bladders at the “Down Under” cattle tank. A spigot at the bottom of a concrete wall forming part of the tank released cold, clear water. It tasted great!

The trail continued to provide us with spectacular views, from Mexico’s mountains 15 miles to the south to the Santa Ritas to the north.

At about 5 p.m., we reached our planned destination for our first camp: Red Rock Canyon. We’d missed a turn earlier and walked an unnecessary mile down a wash. We still had a lot to learn.
Red Rock Canyon is a truly beautiful spot, with its western side being a sheer wall of red, maybe 20 feet high.

No-see-ums (gnats) swarmed as we set up camp, but they left as quickly as they’d appeared after the sun set. Our water supply was way down, but we knew a tank was nearby, so we slept well, knowing we could replenish in the morning.
Heading out at about 8 a.m., we walked off the trail a few yards to find the tank bone dry. This wasn’t a good way to start our day.

A half-mile farther, we found relief at a trough beside a corral. It was filled with water under a cover of algae and insects. On our first hike, Maureen had filtered water out of a dirt tank spotted with cow patties, so weeds and bugs were nothing to us. My photos of that water collection are still a source of conversation.

A couple of miles ahead, we came to a gate. Not seeing a sign or cairn, we went through it, noting more trash labeled in Spanish along the way. We continued to enjoy the beautiful scenery until, during a break, I checked my compass and realized we were heading northwest instead of southwest. I couldn’t blame my disgruntled partner for the dirty look when I broke the news that we were on the wrong trail. Again.

Bushwhacking in the right direction, we finally came to a junction marked with an Arizona Trail decal. With great relief, we slid down a wicked grade. At the bottom was the San Simon mine. Scattered old machinery made for an almost surreal scene. The olden days, come to life.

A final hill, then a series of switchbacks took us down to Harshaw Road. We flagged down a passing motorist who kindly took us into the roaring metropolis of Patagonia, and the end of our second segment.

Our trek taught us still more about how to find water and read trails while enjoying the beautiful southern Arizona scenery.

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Second marina adds to Lake Pleasant fun

The opening of a second marina at Lake Pleasant next week promises Valley boaters more opportunities for fun and lower prices at the popular water destination.

The Scorpion Bay Marina & Yacht Club opens Thursday at the lake, which drew nearly 700,000 visitors in the past fiscal year.

The marina’s debut on the western shore follows months of construction and two years of legal battles with the owners of the nearly 15-year-old Pleasant Harbor Marina on the southeastern shore.

Now, the operators of the two marinas are vying for customers.

Scorpion Bay, which will feature hundreds of boat slips and cost $25 million when it is fully built in the next two to three years, is welcoming the public with open arms. Pleasant Harbor is going private, saying it wants to provide a less-hectic recreation experience.

One way or another, the opening of Scorpion Bay is a good thing, said Peoria resident Bill Johnson, commander of the Phoenix Sail and Power Squadron, an association of sail- and power-boat enthusiasts.

“We don’t have enough facilities around here, and I don’t think competition is a bad thing,” he said.

Boaters are already seeing competitive pricing between the two marinas, representatives for each of the operations said.

Scorpion Bay still doesn’t have all its pieces in place.

A full-service fuel dock will be available starting May 5, but the grand opening for a restaurant, convenience store and deli at the marina probably won’t take place until late June.

Meanwhile, Pleasant Harbor has been upgrading aggressively.

Steve Bodas, Pleasant Harbor marina manager, said 40 wet slips, two floating restrooms, a boat-show sales dock and a clothing boutique have been added in the past year.

The marina has a new barbecue area and is improving and expanding its Waterfront Grille restaurant. Among other things, dining and entertainment are being enhanced with nicer furniture and six flat-screen TVs.

“What we’re striving for is a whole-weekend atmosphere,” Bodas said.

Starting next Saturday, access will be limited to members of the newly formed Pleasant Harbor Marina Private Members Club, which will have an annual fee of $600. People who pay to store their boats at the marina will get automatic membership.

Now, people who store their boats at Pleasant Harbor won’t have to compete with the public for use of such facilities as the restaurant and stores, Bodas said.

“It’s not that we’re locking everybody out,” he said. “We are just now trying to make it more of a family atmosphere, more friendly.”

The RV park near Pleasant Harbor is not going private, he added, and the public will still have access to the boat ramps near the marina.

In addition, the public will continue to be able to use the boat ramps in Lake Pleasant Regional Park on he western edge of the lake. Anyone who pays the park entry fee has access to those ramps.

Marinas wage legal battle

The creation of the second marina was delayed by numerous legal challenges by the owner of Pleasant Harbor.

That owner, Pensus Group, asserted, among other things, that the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation should not have issued environmental approval for Scorpion Bay and that Maricopa County incorrectly approved construction.

Sailboat owner David Weiss, a Phoenix dentist, said he has mixed feelings about the opening of the second marina. He likes the improved access but worries about crowding and the possibility of more boating accidents.

“I welcome more usage, I welcome the fact that there will be a little bit more competition, as far as the costs of things,” Weiss said. “But there’s potentially some problems here.”

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Stay-cation tourists encouraged to explore Arizona

The Arizona Office of Tourism has launched ‘Arizona Passages’ to promote 27 Arizona parks and the 800-mile Arizona trail.

Tina Miller, with the tourism office, says record fuel prices could keep many Arizonans closer to home this summer.

But she says, fortunately, they won’t have to look much further than their own backyards.

“People can hike and fish and horseback ride and there’s the Kartchner Caverns, Yuma territorial prison, all kinds of great things to do. And then there’s also the Arizona Trail which is 800 miles of diversity and scenic pathways.”

Visiting online at www.azpassages.com.

How about a MANcation in Arizona?

Buddies, hubbies and bachelors: Get away for a MANcation (and then your ladies can plan a girl’s getaway, too) to gorgeous Lake Powell in Arizona.

Bordering Arizona and Utah, this man-made reservoir with almost 2,000 miles of shoreline (and more than 400 feet deep, 186 miles long) is perfect for fishing, boating, water skiing, kayaking and houseboating. A highlight on the lake is Rainbow Bridge plus the many canyons, sand dunes and outstanding scenery with dramatically sculptured red rocks.

Lake Powell Resorts and Marinas offers “The Great Lake Powell Fishing Trip” which includes a two-night stay in a lakeview room, a full-day rental of a 19′ power boat, a full-day of guided fishing with equipment for two, box lunches and a $50 resort credit. Prices range from $961-$1,149, based on two sharing accommodations.

Fed by five rivers filled with striped bass, trout, pike, small mouth, large mouth and catfish, ‘The Lake” offers ideal conditions with the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area as the scenic backdrop.

Choose from this or from a number of other exciting vacation options on Lake Powell, www.lakepowell.com/specials/index.cfm

Phoenix is about a five-hour drive from Lake Powell. Get there with AirTran or Delta on daily non-stop flight service from $119 each way. This rate is valid on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Saturdays when a 10-day or more advance notice of travel is given. Rates are from $129 on Mondays, Thursdays or Fridays. Trips must be finished on or before Nov. 12. Buy tickets through May 6.

Another option is to fly into Page, Arizona, (city code PGA) — located on the southwest coast of the lake and a couple of miles from the north edge of the Navajo Indian Reservation. Page is served with a daily flight on Frontier (via Denver) at a one-way rate of $179, except on Sundays.

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Adventure on the rocks

Step away from the tourist strip and drink up the scenery

Have Your Aura Photographed. Psychic Energy Readings Here. Vortex Information. Therapy on the Rocks.

These are just a few of the enthusiasm-dampening signs along the roadside driving into Sedona. This is “Red Rock Country,” after all, where the stunning terra cotta-coloured buttes tower into view as you approach the city popularized for not just its stunning copper scenery, but also its vortexes — the natural energy that is said to deeply affect people spiritually.

This phenomenon has been studied and written about by both scholars and enthusiasts for years. According to a recent Northern Arizona University study, 64 per cent of people who visited Sedona said they came for a spiritual reawakening.

After reading about Sedona for years as a New Age haven set against a backdrop of drop-dead beauty, one expects a moment of discovery like driving west on the Trans-Canada — where suddenly around the next bend, the Rockies appear. Sedona’s rocks have that kind of impact, too, except after a view of the first few gorgeous rock formations set against a brilliant blue sky, the windshield fills with signs, strip malls and a long line of traffic along its main street.

First Nations people — including the Hopi, Zuni, Navaho and Yavapai — have regarded this geographic enigma — eons of layer upon layer of sun-burnt sand and limestone formations sitting 1,300 metres above sea level — as far back as 4000 BC. So special was this place to them that it served as a venue for religious ceremonies. In the 1980s, stressed-out seekers from cities across North America came in search of refuge. New Age Sedona attracted massage therapists, psychics and healers, as well as artists and writers. But when word trickled out that this place held a special healing energy which enhanced spiritual and psychic experiences, the tourists came en masse.

In the spirit of the real Sedona, when you visit, escape the ice-cream eating and latte-drinking crowd. Magical places are not far from the ticky-tacky strip — with its crystal boutiques and cowboy trading posts –on some of the hundreds of trails and byways just a few minutes from the sprawling town. You may or may not have a spiritual experience, but you’ll be rewarded with silence, save for the crickets (and cicadas?) in the desert, and jaw-dropping views.

Save your souvenir shopping for the end of the day.

HIKE: Because you’re at a national site, (Coconino National Forest) you’ll have to buy a $5 daily Red Rock Park Pass (weekly pass is $15, annual $20) at any of the visitors centers along the way.

Maps are available, as are good suggestions from staff for a variety of hikes. There are hundreds of trails around the area, some well-marked, others not, and some trailheads that begin in residential areas.

We hiked Brin’s Mesa, a moderate climb on trails speckled with prickly pear cactus, yuccas and juniper trees. The vistas along the way are stunning and once on the mesa, you’ll see the valley for miles and be able to pinpoint the most well-known buttes in the area.

Other recommendations from local hikers:

n Wet Beaver Wilderness: Located about three kilometres east of the Sedona exit from I-17. Though challenging, this is purported to be a hidden gem of hiking trails that includes the opportunity to swim as you hike through some of the canyon pools along the 17.4-kilometre Bell Trail.

n A second hiking recommendation from a native Sedonan is the West Fork hiking trail, considered the premier and most scenic hiking trail in the area. It’s accessed from Oak Creek Scenic Road and part of the Secret Mountain Red Rock Wilderness. The wooded trail, which winds along terra-cotta canyon walls along Oak Creek, is about 16 kilometres, and the first four or five kilometres are easy enough for young families. The last portion would appeal to the seasoned hiker/backpacker.

DRIVE: Oak Creek Scenic Road (off Highway 89A) On the west side of Sedona’s main tourist area, take this winding, two-lane road that rises to an elevation of 2,000 metres.

Along the way, you’ll see people fishing and beautifully treed campgrounds.

But the main event is the vista from the top, which overlooks the lushly treed Oak Creek Canyon. There’s an interpretive trail and you’ll also find local Indians selling handicrafts and jewelry here, seven days a week.

Play: Bring your bathing suit and wade or better yet cruise down the natural water slide on your bottom at Slide Rock State Park, located about 10 kilometres up 89A, the Oak Creek Scenic Road. The fee is around $10 per car.

Chill: Back on the main street (North Highway 89A) line up at the Black Cow Cafe for homemade ice cream.

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Overlooked red-rock trail leads to splendid overlooks

The red-rock backcountry west of Sedona is so full of fascinating canyons and scenic trails that it’s easy to overlook some of the more modest hikes in the area.

Consider the Doe Mountain Trail.

Looking over maps of the area, you notice that it’s not very long nor does it gain much elevation. Ignore it, though, and you’re missing out on a terrific hike.

Not only can you wander the mesa at the end of the trail for hours, but you have grand views of several Sedona landmarks from the top. Look for Chimney Rock and Capitol Butte to the east, Bear Mountain and the resort at the mouth of Boynton Canyon to the north, the Cockscomb to the south, and Courthouse Butte and Bell Rock to the southeast. Off to the southwest, the low, dark silhouettes of Mingus and Woodchute mountains stretch across the horizon.

The Doe Mountain Trail begins just across the road from the small parking area at the Bear Mountain Trailhead. Although the rugged orange bluff looks daunting at first, the hike isn’t bad at all.

As the trail grinds steadily uphill through a typical Sedona landscape of juniper, scrub oak, manzanita, yucca and prickly pear cactus, you gain steadily more expansive views of the surrounding area, especially to the north.

The mountain itself is a geologist’s dream. Sheer orange cliffs surround the mesa, and broken slabs of sandstone, weirdly striated bluffs and layers of twisted rock are visible everywhere.

The trail gets rougher and considerably steeper as you approach the mesa’s rim, with the last few feet leading up a narrow, rocky chute. Make a mental note of this area for when you’re ready to return.

Although thick, scrubby vegetation covers the top of the mesa, a network of small trails crisscrosses the area, making it fairly easy to get from one side to the other. Still, pants are preferable to shorts on this hike.

No single point offers a 360-degree view, but since virtually the entire perimeter consists of a wide, bare, rocky ledge, you have endless vantage points.

Remember that the route down starts at the notch on the northwest side of the mesa. Several cairns mark the area, but you have to be fairly close to see them.

Allow about an hour for the moderate round-trip hike along the trail, and at least another hour or so to explore the mesa top.

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