Dos Cabezas Mountains Provides a Scenic Drive in Arizona

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Scenic drive: Dos Cabezas Mountains

There may be no better way to sample the sights of southeastern Arizona than a circumnavigation of the Dos Cabezas Mountains. (Geologically, the mountains are simply the northernmost extension of the Chiricahuas, but, historically, they are a range unto themselves.)

The trip takes you past an old Army fort, a rugged wilderness, a charming little museum dedicated to one of Arizona’s native sons and a delightful hole-in-the-wall restaurant. Part of the route is unpaved, but the road is in generally good condition and, unless the weather’s bad, you can make the trip in a sedan. Things to note along the way:

Fort Bowie National Historic Site: History seems tangible at Fort Bowie, the Army’s center of operations in southeastern Arizona from 1862 to 1894. The 1 1/2-mile walk to the old fort transports you back in time, giving you a real appreciation for how the soldiers who once lived here must have felt. Along the way you’ll see an old Butterfield Stage Station, the Post Cemetery, the site of the Chiricahua Apache Indian Agency and Apache Spring, the life-giving source of water at the center of the area’s many conflicts. The visitor center is open 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m. daily (except Thanksgiving and Christmas). Free. www.nps.gov/fobo or 520-847-2500.

Dos Cabezas Mountains: If you’ve ever driven past Willcox or Bowie, you’ve seen the “two heads” from which the mountains derive their name. The granite peaks, nearly identical in appearance from most angles, are about 8,350 feet high. The nearly 12,000-acre Dos Cabezas Mountains Wilderness has a few springs, but no developed hiking trails.

Rodney’s: You may enjoy the casual atmosphere at this tiny, no-frills eatery as much as you enjoy Rodney Brown’s home-style cooking. Locals line up around lunchtime, so get there early. You can dine on the patio or take your food across the street to the small park and picnic area. 118 N. Railroad Ave., Willcox, (just a couple doors down from the Rex Allen Arizona Cowboy Museum).

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